Multifaceted collections that cater to both clean and classic aesthetics and youth-oriented trends were in the spotlight last week at Denim Première Vision in Milan.
The French denim trade show returned to Superstudio Più, allowing exhibitors to showcase the vast creative possibilities of their Spring/Summer 2024 fabrics, trims, dye and finishing solutions. Yarn Twist
Though fabrics and trims are rooted in the past by a “spirit of authenticity and heritage,” Lorenza Martello, Denim Première Vision’s denim fashion expert, said the new collections are in keeping with the market’s expectations of sustainability, quality and durability.
A growing commitment to using renewable alternatives, less water for fiber cultivation and less chemicals in production processes is evident in Spring/Summer 2024 fabric collections. “We’ve seen an increase in the use of recycled post- and pre-consumer fibers and a mix of mechanical and chemical recycling,” she said.
Fibers made from medicine crops and food waste—like banana and apple skin—are also gaining steam, she added.
Meanwhile, cotton blends with linen, hemp and bamboo are adding to mill’s environmental savings and resulting in fabrics with unique handles and surface textures. The use of these fibers is also found in accessories like ribbons. Related Story Denim Recycled and Regenerated Fibers Take Center Stage at Denim PV
Zero dye concepts help show off the fibers’ irregularities and unique characteristics, resulting in the vintage and worn aesthetic that is inspiring S/S ’24 color trends, in general.
Pastels, obtained from floral, shell and fruit sources, have a naturally “slightly dirty” appearance that mills are leaning into rather than trying to make perfect.
“The color effects are irregular, washed out, not clean and uniform due to the experimental washing and dyeing processes in shades ranging from dirty yellows to greens,” Martello said.
The natural colors contrast with ultraviolet and dark shades of purple that nod to Gen Z’s fondness for bold hues. Diffused colors, metallic coatings and sparkly coatings added a Y2K element.
Lighter-weight fabrics are a given in any spring/summer season, however Martello said the shift away from super stretch fabrications is giving greater importance to fabrics that have soft and flowing effect for new baggy and loose silhouettes. Supple handles and comfort are fundamentals in all collections, she added.
This is giving way to new shorter jacket silhouettes with volume at the waist as well.
An interest in textures opens new opportunities for novelty weaves. Martello named square weaves as a symbol of durability and strength for items like piping hot cargo pants and shorts. Yarn effects are explored to the fullest. Exaggerated neps on dark denim bases with a variety of twist-yarn effects and ring, cross and slubbed effects with extremely long yarns offer updated takes on authentic denim.
The season also calls for “complex and highly charged visuals” that are “slightly dramatic, overly elaborate” and filled with artisan details.
“Here, color effects express the passing of time,” she said, adding that mineral colors, stain effects and overdyes add layers and depth to fabrics.
Indeed, the prevalence of Regency-era fashion trickles into denim through opulent jacquards made with cleaner, pure indigo colors, rich flocked fabric and metallic threads.
Distressing and patchwork, however, brings the baroque look back to a more relatable dystopian vibe for 2024.
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